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Rob Greig
At Bake in London’s Chinatown, chefs make Japanese taiyaki — cakes shaped like tai (red seabream). Fillings include read bean paste (made from sweetened adzuki beans), custard, chocolate, cheese and sweet potato. Our photo story for Issue 8 (spring 2020) celebrated the history and dishes on offer in this area. Thanks to immigration from Hong Kong and nearby regions, the food here was once largely Cantonese, but in recent years it’s diversified, and today there are outlets specialising in everything from Taiwanese fried chicken to Malaysian roti. Read the article.
G. Kelly’s, on Bethnal Green Road, has stuck to the age-old liquor-only rule, refusing to succumb to the modern idea of gravy with pie.
Jellied eels are a Cockney staple. F. Cooke on Broadway Market was own by the Cooke family for more than a century before its recent closure.
M.Manze, on Tower Bridge Road, sports the archetypal Pie ’n’ Mash aesthetic of tiled walls and marble surfaces. The shop was opened in 1902 by Michele Manze, grandfather of the present owners, and the recipes remain largely unchanged today — although the menu now includes veggie options and gravy is offered as an alternative to liquor.
Steamed bao buns are a popular Chinese snack all over the world. In London's Chinatown, diners seek out the squidgiest on offer — like these, at Lisle Street's Bun House.
Singaporean entrepreneur Ellen Chew, the owner of numerous Chinatown restaurants, is making waves in a male-dominated industry.
The end result: taiyaki are small desserts stuffed with sweet or savoury fillings — traditional options include red bean paste, custard or sweet potato.
Taiyaki batter, similar to pancake or waffle batter, is fried within a mould in the shape of red seabream, or tai.
Jianbing, similar to crepes, are a traditional Chinese streetfood. Here, one is served up by chef Miu at Chinese Tapas House on Little Newport Street.
A labour of love: handmade dim sum are time-consuming for the team at Plum Valley to produce, but they're eminently popular with diners.