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Tasneem Al Sultan

While flower shops in Saudi Arabia openly celebrate Valentine’s Day today, in earlier years merchants hid their red flowers during the week of the holiday to avoid punishment by the Committee for the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice, a national department once charged with enforcing strict religious norms.

Valentine’s Day has evolved into a global celebration of romance—but remains unloved in some parts of the world. Until 2016, merchants in Saudi Arabia were prevented from selling Valentine’s Day items; today, salespeople like this jewelry store clerk in Khobar do quick business around the holiday.

“My first trip to the desert was with a group of Saudis that I’d never met before. Although I’m a local to the country with the second largest desert in the world, I never actually spent a whole night in the desert before,” says photographer Tasneem Alsultan. “A friend suggested that I hang out with a group of his friends and sit by a fire and just enjoy the stars and nature. I loved every minute.” (Related: How Saudi Arabia has changed over time.)

Women collect Zamzam water from a fountain in the Grand Mosque. The water is believed to flow from a spring struck by God to ease the thirst of Abraham’s family in Mecca, and bottles of Zamzam water are collected by pilgrims to bring to their loved ones back home.

"Last year marked many changes for Saudi women. We were allowed to enter stadiums, watch football matches, have music concerts to attend, and, most importantly, were able to finally drive cars. These big changes weren't even considered two years ago. As a Saudi photographer there were many instances where I would photograph with tears in my eyes with joy and disbelief. However, I understand the responsibility that I have as a documentarian. I have to share a side of Saudi that isn't always expected nor accepted by outsiders and unfortunately, sometimes not even welcomed by Saudis, either. Images that depict women with strength are not always welcome by men. Perhaps because they see it as a threat? I try to capture images of women that I find as empowered. Ones that I can point out to my daughters and say: 'Look! This can be you too!'" Tasneem Alsultan