Photo gallery: the souks, tanneries and timeless leathercraft traditions of Marrakech
Moroccan tanneries are renowned for their quality and craft, and nowhere is the deep-rooted heritage of leatherwork better experienced than the Red City. The story of Marrakech’s leather-making tradition embodies the city’s thriving cultural identity.
The number of vats available and workers employed in the medina’s biggest tannery allow for a vast quantity of hides to be processed, leading the local production of both small and large skins.
An open-air tannery in the Bab Debbagh quarter, on the northern edge of the medina. The pits are used throughout the many stages of the tanning process. Hides soak in water mixed with a range of natural elements for set periods of time in order to gradually transform them from raw skins to finished leather.
Bustling activity in one of Marrakech’s tanneries. Work revolves around the concrete vats, which are the centre point of the entire tanning process.
Tanners handle a large hide during one of the first stages of the process. Skins are covered in a paste made from limestone and soaked in vats for two weeks. During this time, they’re flipped over at specific times.
A tannery worker handles a large hide, after two weeks of macerating it in limestone mixed with water. The skin is now ready for the next step of the process, where it will be scraped and gradually refined.
Workers carefully scrape a hide after it has been made supple by the first part of the tanning process. A large bladed tool is used to remove fat, flesh and hairs, preparing the hide for the next steps in this traditional practice.
A worker scrapes residue off a hide. This step of the process is time consuming and needs due care, as it strips the leather from all the unnecessary excess parts.
Tanners scraping a large skin. The team works in close harmony, going through this laborious task with phenomenal ease. Precision is second nature to them.
Moving a stack of skins to the next stage of the process. Every task is carried out by hand. It’s hard labour but is in keeping with long-held traditions.
A worker in the process of placing hides in a pit for natural colouring. A range of organic elements are used according to the intensity of tint that needs to be achieved.
Abdul Mohammed, an experienced tanner, in one of the Bab Debbagh tanneries. The skins are laid at the bottom of the pit and soaked in a solution made of water and different plants to acquire a natural light-brown colour.
Hides air drying in one of the Marrakech tanneries. At the end of the tanning process, skins are laid out over the covered pits to dry before arriving at the final stage of scraping.
A worker scrapes off a tanned hide (the final stage of the process) with a traditional bladed tool. It’s a very physical task that will finish off the leathers, making them ready for trading.
Tanned hides ready to be sold to local dyers and artisans. Negotiations take place in the alleys of the artisans’ quarter of the medina, where the processed leather will then be transformed into finished goods.
One of the main lanes of the artisans’ quarter. Workers carry out their crafts inside and outside their workshops with a bustling and methodical activity. There is a chaotic order and a fascinating vibe, unique to this area of Marrakech’s medina.
Beginning the process of making a leather bag. Cardboard templates are used to draw the required shapes of the many sections needed on the hide. The artisan selects the best parts of the leather and trims them to perfection to reduce hide waste and maximise productivity.
An artisan carefully cuts a dyed hide into the several parts that will make up the finished product. Later, they will be sewn together to create a leather rucksack.
A leather merchant shop in the artisan quarter trading leathers from a range of different animal skins. They’re worked to different finishes, and often used for unique and niche creations.
An artisan crafting in his workshop. The traditional wooden tool is used to seal off glued leather sections, before they’re sewn together to make up the finished product.
An artisan assembling a leather bag in his workshop. It requires experience and remarkable crafting skills. Depending on the model’s specifications, it can be a very long process that involves many leather sections, previously cut out. These are then carefully sewn together, resulting in the end product.
Leather shoulder pouch and bum bags for sale in an artisan workshop. Some of the craftsmen sell their creations directly to the public, in addition to taking commissions from leather merchants, which are then sold in the souks of the medina.
Second-hand wooden moulds for sale in a street market in the leather artisans’ quarter of the medina. They come in different shapes and sizes, depending on the required model of traditional shoes or slippers to be crafted.
A highly skilled artisan in his workshop making traditional Moroccan shoes. Transforming the hides into finished products requires an intensive crafting process that’s complicated in technique and rich in tradition. It’s been passed down through generations of workers.
Inner soles are drawn on the hide using a cardboard template, according to the model being made. They’re then glued to a thicker leather sheet for added comfort. They’ll then be cut out, ready for the next step in the assembly.
A stack of babouche slippers in the making. The crafted leather upper section is stretched on the specific mould before being joined to the lower section. A variety of soles, according to the model’s specification, can then be attached.
Daily life in the souk of Marrakech. A merchant awaits custom outside his shop, contemplating life passing by. The early hours of the morning are when the souk is at its most enjoyable, free from hordes of shoppers browsing for their next purchase.
One of the main lanes of the souks. The bustling activity, the many products on sale, the local characters and the rays of light falling through the sun covers make it a fascinating place to explore, tapping into all the senses.
Tanned hides are crafted into a variety of finished goods. Satchels come in a wide range of sizes, styles and finishes. Merchants offer an endless choice of local craftsmanship in the souks, and leather bags can even be made to a customer’s requirements.
A colourful display of expertly crafted Moroccan slippers for sale in the famous slipper souk of Marrakech. The area is part of the wider leather souk and is entirely dedicated to slippers.
Handmade leather shoes on display in one of the stalls in the souk. Footwear is crafted to a high standard using a wide variety of skins and colour finishing.