A slow, spiritual journey through Kansai, Japan's ancient heartland
With its cascading waterfalls, primordial forests, ancient shrines, mountaintop temples and a seemingly indestructible castle, the Kansai region is the geographic and spiritual heart of Japan.
For thousands of years, the forces of religion, trade and war have pulsed through Kansai, a region that extends from Hyogo, bordering the Seto Inland Sea, to Wakayama, which stretches southward along the Kii Peninsula. These have helped to fuel the syncretism, dynamism and resilience so characteristic of this country. During the Heian period (794-1185) while court culture flourished, apocalyptic visions haunted the Japanese psyche, and there was a belief that the end of the world was approaching. The population sought purity, redemption and rebirth, and pilgrims set out for Kumano Sanzan, three of the nation’s most sacred shrines. Today, people still follow the same paths, and this trail network is now called Kumano Kodo. Routes cross lofty mountains, skirt rocky coasts and wind through Wakayama, Nara and Mie prefectures, connecting some of the most significant sites in the Japanese Buddhist and Shinto traditions. From the high mountain temple complex of Koyasan and the untouched forests of Nachi to the rivers and forest shrines of Totsukawa, the Kii Peninsula is a sacred place that often feels far removed from modern life. To the west, meanwhile, along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea, plentiful agriculture and innovative industry powered the rise of the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo period (1603-1868). Castles built hundreds of years ago remain standing, and time-tested methods of salt-, soy sauce- and sword-making are preserved and revered.
Over thousands of years, as pilgrims converged in Kumano, in Wakayama, a blending of spiritual and cultural traditions took place. This contributed to the development of the indigenous Shinto faith, as well as the Buddhist tradition.This wildly beautiful area played a vital role in the formation of Shugendo, a mountain religion that blends ancient animistic practices with Shinto and esoteric Buddhism. Although the religion was outlawed during the Meiji period (1868-1912), adherents of Shugendo found sanctuary in the mountains of Kumano.
Ueno Katsumi is a Shugendo practitioner — known as a yamabushi (one who prays on the mountain) — as well as a trekking and kayaking guide. He moved to Kumano 15 years ago, having become immersed in the teachings of Shingon Buddhism. Previously, Ueno ran a successful outdoor clothing company. “I thought, ‘I have such a nice life. I want to do something for my ancestors to show my gratitude,’” he says. He began exploring the mountains of Kumano, chanting the mantras he was learning in his deepening spiritual practice. One day, as he was praying in solitude at a waterfall, he met a hiker. “He asked me to join his hiking group,” Ueno recalls. “When I showed up, they were all wearing white,” the distinctive garb of the yamabushi. Now a Shugendo practitioner himself, Ueno ventures into the mountains several times a year, practising walking meditation and praying at sacred ‘power spots’, including giant boulders, waterfalls and thousand-year-old trees. Like so many seekers before him, Ueno found his place in Kumano. “Straightaway, people will feel how warm and welcoming the community is here,” he says. “The people of Kumano have been welcoming pilgrims for over 1,000 years.”
Wakayama prefecture is home to some of Japan’s oldest and most sacred sites, including Koyasan, the birthplace of Japanese esoteric Buddhism and the three shrines of Kumano Sanzan.
The area also has countless ancient onsen, such as Yunomine Onsen in Tanabe. In fact, the nearby seaside town of Shirahama is one of the oldest hot spring areas in the country, dating all the way back to the 7th century. Wakayama feels both rugged and remote, worlds away from modern Japan, yet there are luxurious dining and accommodation options aplenty here, such as the beautiful ryokan, Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima, accessible only by ferry.
Totsukawa, located deep in the mountains of Nara prefecture, was once the home of samurai. With its rough trails and deep swimming holes, this is a tough, wild place, attracting young urbanites with a spirit of adventure. At Kamiyu Onsen, visitors can alternate between long soaks in the outdoor hot springs and quick dips in the cold mountain stream. There are also bento-making workshops, with wild boar, hunted by locals, featuring on many of the menus.
Hyogo prefecture has long been an important trading hub, and the industries that were developed here over the centuries — from fighting to food — went on to deeply influence Japanese life. Soy sauce production, sea salt harvesting, and swordsmithing are just a few of the ancient traditions kept alive in Hyogo today. One of the prefecture’s most interesting cities is Himeji, situated on the banks of the Seto Inland Sea and guarding the western routes to Kyoto. Himeji plays a proud role in Japanese history, and although most famous for its hilltop castle (pictured on the following page), a symbol of the city’s strategic importance, its rich culinary culture, immaculate gardens and quiet temples speak to its role as a conduit for forces beyond war and governance.
Engyo-ji, perched on Mount Shosha is a temple complex dating back more than a millennium. It’s an important stop on the Saigoku Kannon pilgrimage route, with the temple grounds offering an ideal setting for quiet meditation and sutra-writing under the tutelage of the monks who live there. Engyo-ji is so iconically Japanese that it even featured in the 2003 film The Last Samurai.
Himeji’s gem is its towering white castle, which has stood guard over Kansai for more than 400 years. Seemingly indestructible, Himeji Castle has, unlike many other historical sites in Japan, withstood or been spared the ravages of fire, storms, earthquakes and wars. The grounds are a joy to walk through during cherry blossom season, and its main tower offers an expansive view of the area. Within the castle grounds, Koko-en is a traditional Japanese garden, featuring a waterfall, koi pond, bamboo groves, tea ceremony house and other distinctive designs of Edo-era Japan.
Shunyu Kaneko is a monk at Shoshazan Engyo-ji. He came to the temple 20 years ago as a spiritual refugee escaping the chaos and complexity of life in Tokyo. Shunyu had questions about life and existence — and it was here he sought answers. "I had started learning about Buddhism when I lived in Tokyo," he says. "Another monk taught me many things, and in my mind I understood — but not in my body and soul. I still had questions and I needed answers. Becoming a monk was a way to find answers to these questions."
In Hyogo, travellers have the opportunity to forge a samurai sword with Kikyo Hayamitsu, a master tosho (swordsmith) who says that while he’s not a lover of weapons, his passion lies in the art of making them. At Kikyo’s workshop, you can learn about the craft and history of sword-making before trying your hand at forging a small samurai knife yourself.
The city of Ako has long been known for its salt production, and the Ako Marine Science Museum offers a hands-on exploration of various methods of salt-making, as well as an overview of the science behind it. You can also purchase a range of sea salts to take home.
How to do it
British Airways and Japan Airlines operate direct flights between Heathrow and Osaka’s Kansai International Airport. From Osaka, you can then travel west via the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Himeji. To head into Koyasan, take the Nankai Express, while for Southern Wakayama, choose JR Limited Express. Continue your journey through the Kii Peninsula via local trains, buses, taxis or rental car. At various points along Parts of the Kumano Kodo can be done by bus, helping you cover more ground. The best time to visit Kansai is in spring for the cherry blossom, or autumn for the mountain foliage. In winter, you can see the temples of Koyasan covered in snow, while in summer, you’ll experience mild temperatures perfect for hiking and bathing.
To find out more, visit kansaiguide.jp/exciting
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