Photo story: the ancient traditions and ochre-hued homelands of Australia's Yolngu people

The Nyinyikay Homeland, in East Arnhem Land, boasts an extraordinary sight called Rocky Point, a strip of red rock which curves around a tranquil, far-reaching bay. Edged by the Arafura Sea, it’s also dubbed ‘The Needle’ by locals, given its shape, and doubles as an airstrip during the rainy season when the area is cut off and access is only available by light aircraft.

Pandanus leaves are cut, boiled, then stirred using natural dye ground from gathered bush bulbs found in the bush at Nyinyikay Homeland. The women hang the leaves to dry and use them to weave mats, baskets, or bags. Each item will be created with a cultural story running through its design.

Djali Ganambarr, a respected Yolngu elder, contemplates life at Bawaka Homeland as he leans against a branch used for spear fishing. Yolngu people have used hunting spears for millennia in the Northern Territory, and are so attuned the movements of their environment that the Yolngu people can see the slightest ripple in the water. After a quick approach, they can render their target lifeless with just one throw. 

The Yolngu source hollow tree trunks from the surrounding bush to craft didgeridoos. Randy Yibarbuk, a leader and respected guide, tests a freshly cut ‘instrument’, listening to its sound.

Milika Marika climbs a rock face at Gapuru Memorial Park in Nhulunbuy after cooling off in its fresh waters. Rock pools and billabongs (natural watering holes) are fabulous places to cool down in when the mercury rises in the sun-baked landscapes of the Northern Territory.

Respected Yolngu leader, Randy Yibarbuk sifts ancient sand through his hands at Lonely Beach near Bawaka Homeland. The Yolngu believe their land is so sacred that it’s considered the ancestral heartbeat and root of their culture.

Bawaka Homeland is the ancestral home of the Gumatj clan in Australia’s Northern Territory. Its stunning, palm-skirted beach flank the azure waters of the Gulf of Carpentaria. Travellers can stay here on multi-day tours with Lirrwi Tourism.

Yolngu women are an important part of Yolngu culture and are often considered matriarchal in their society. Dorothy, who lives at Balma Homeland, is integral in passing important cultural knowledge down to younger generations.

A short walk from Bawaka Homeland leads to Lonely Beach, where two beaches connect at a rocky island. Whether you visit at sunrise or sunset, the rich earth seems to glow like gold from different angles. Crocodiles are not uncommon in the area, and someone looking out from a high vantage point might spot the reptiles basking in shallow waters. Permits are needed to enter the area and can be obtained through Lirrwi Tourism.

Wall art created by artist Stephen Langman in Yirrkala Homeland depicts members of the Rirratjingu clan wearing tribal adornments. In 1984 the Rirratjingu founded a corporation to represent their people, and to protect their land rights.

In the remote outback of north-east Arnhem Land, Koolatong Sinkhole has naturally formed over thousands of years. The natural body of water can be found near Balma Homeland and visitors need a permit to enter the area, and can be applied for through Lirrwi Tourism.

As well as being hunter-gatherers, Yolngu women are very resourceful in collecting and decorating whatever they find along the coastline and in bush areas in the outback. Painting shells and making jewellery are all part of women’s work in Yolngu culture.