William Dalrymple on how living in India has changed him

William Dalrymple didn’t set out to become Britain’s leading chronicler of Indian history, but a chance trip to the subcontinent started a lifelong obsession. Thirty years on, he’s still living in Delhi — a city with a “tangible sense of history”.

Delhi: A maharaja’s metropolis

A seat of power for hundreds of years, India’s capital has been invaded, ravaged and restored several times, emerging as a historical enclave of architectural wonders. Sample the street food, tap into its modern art scene and wander along the walls of the resplendent Red Fort

Should I go on a slum tour? Meeting the local guides in Delhi's Sanjay Colony

A slum tour in Delhi reveals it's not about ogling poverty and inequality but about acknowledging the reality so both travellers and locals can learn from each other.

Where to stay in Delhi

Delhi's mix of modernity and Mughal monuments is set to a soundtrack of car horns, but with new hostels opening up alongside five-star properties, a stay in India's capital can also be a breath of fresh air

Breaking bread: eating with a Kayasth family in Delhi

India's Kayasth people sit outside the caste system, their culture and cuisine crossing religious and class divides. In Delhi, the Chandra family throws plenty of its own andaz — personal style — into the mix.

Delhi: The real street food

Take a tour of Old Delhi and discover the classic, traditional tastes of street food — from jalebi to curries

City life: Delhi

Crowded, chaotic and cacophonous, the Indian capital can overwhelm. But stick around and you'll discover Delhi is an arty, cosmopolitan and green city that's far more laid-back than you think

Author series: Tarquin Hall

A chance encounter in the Indian capital, Delhi, led journalist and novelist Tarquin Hall to a long and meaningful romance with the city

Delhi: A Gurgaon homestay

"Look for a balding, fat Indian holding a straw hat," were my instructions on arriving at Delhi International Airport. "That will be me"

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