Nowhere does ‘big’ like Las Vegas, but the city is realising the benefit of turning down the intensity. Here’s where to head for the low-key side of Sin City.

Winter blues? Fear not: there's plenty of desert decadence to melt them away — these festivals amid the sand dunes feature everything from yoga at sunset to camel racing

Opulent, ambitious and decidedly over-the-top, the hotels of the Strip have made Vegas instantly recognisable. But these days, with a new generation of pleasure palaces, Sin City is springing a few surprises.

It's known for bright lights, roulette wheels and a soundtrack of shrieking slot machines, but there's another side to Sin City. With a slew of new craft breweries, independent shops and art galleries, there's more to Vegas than meets the eye