A journey through Lewis and Harris, the wild heart of Scotland's Outer Hebrides

A journey through Lewis and Harris, the wild heart of Scotland's Outer Hebrides

The island of Lewis and Harris is home to an unfathomable number of shades of blue, from the sea to the sky. Perhaps that’s what calls so many natives back to the Scottish isles. And why the world wants to get its hands on their famous tweed.

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Take it outside: five new family adventures in England

From floating aqua parks to Peppa Pig-inspired experiences, there’s a host of new adventures to discover across England when domestic travel resumes in 2020.

How to visit this year's most talked-about TV locations

Fallen in love with the rugged backdrop of Sligo in BBC Three’s Normal People, or the rolling valleys of the Wye Valley in Netflix’s Sex Education? It seems we’ve all been watching a little more TV lately — so, while we wait for travel restrictions to lift, here’s what you need to know to plan your entertainment-inspired getaway.

How I got the shot: Richard James Taylor on capturing the landscapes of New Brunswick

The Restigouche River, in New Brunswick, offers the traveller some of the most wild and remote terrain in Canada. On his latest assignment, photographer Richard James Taylor explored the region, discovering its places and its people.

Irish chef Jp McMahon on Galway's best restaurants

The author of the The Irish Cookbook shares his passion for local produce and where to eat out in his hometown, a city fast becoming famous for its culinary heritage and Michelin stars.

WHAT'S NEW

Photo story: the autumn ritual of wild horse herding in Iceland's Kolbeinsdalur Valley

The snow is falling lightly in the Kolbeinsdalur Valley. Everyone is waiting; anticipation lies heavy in the air. A distant rumble of hoofs breaks the silence and over the horizon, right on cue, a herd of more than 500 wild horses thunders into view. Welcome to Laufskálarétt, Iceland’s biggest annual horse round-up.

From my city to yours: Detroit through the eyes of Motown musician Omar Aragonés

Omar is Detroit born and bred, and the love he feels for his city goes hand in hand with his passion for music. From listening to live music at Cliff Bell’s to dining at Supino Pizzeria, he reveals how best to get under the skin of Michigan’s largest city.

What to do on the north Norfolk coast

With miles of wild, windswept coastline, seaside towns and fine local fare, the north Norfolk coast has rural, rugged charm in abundance. We look at the unmissable highlights, from hiking the Norfolk Coast Path to sailing on the salt marshes.

How to spend a long weekend in Ticino, Switzerland

Swiss charm meets la dolce vita in Ticino, Switzerland’s southernmost, sole Italian-speaking canton.

What happens next? The impact of coronavirus on poaching in Zambia and Zimbabwe

Earlier this year, we published a feature exploring the role of tourism in reversing the impact of poaching in Zambia and Zimbabwe. With most travel currently on hold, we talk to Wilderness Safaris’ group sustainability manager, Neil Midlane, about the impact Covid-19 having on both the projects and the people associated with wildlife tourism in the region.
National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Jul/Aug 2020
The power of place
by National Geographic Traveller
Travel has the potential to profoundly change us. This issue's collection of stories is testimony to the transformative, magical power of travel.
Photograph by AWL Images

This issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK) celebrates the reasons we choose to travel. We asked Pico Iyer, Levison Wood, Christina Lamb, William Dalrymple, Emily Chappell, Robert Macfarlane, Ade Adepitan, Felicity Aston and many more household names to reveal the places they hold dearest and the travel experiences that have shaped their lives.
 
Whether it’s a wild encounter, a meeting with someone new, or simply a moment of realisation that your place in the world isn’t quite what you thought it was, travel has the potential to profoundly change each of us. As part of this issue’s cover story, their collection of stories — spanning destinations as diverse as Delhi, Tibet, Afghanistan Alaska, Botswana and the UK — is testimony to the transformative, magical power of travel. 
 
Plus, we discover Ireland’s storied southwestern peninsulas, round up some of the best experiences across the Indian Ocean, spend a long weekend in the Brecon Beacons and explore Cyprus’s culinary prowess in the changing coastal city of Limassol. Our photo story looks at the time-honoured leathercraft tradition in Marrakech, weaving through the souks and tanneries. Meanwhile, urban stories this issue include Bilbao, Saint-Tropez and Mumbai.
 

Read more in the Jul/Aug 2020 issue — SUBSCRIBE TODAY

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The Jul/Aug 2020 issue of National Geographic Traveller
Photograph by Slawek Kozdras; Getty; Nico Avelardi; Karolina Wiercigroch (clockwise from top left)

Photography

Photo story: celebrating the characters and creations of London's Chinatown

The food found in Chinatown was once largely Cantonese, but in recent years it’s diversified. Today its outlets specialise in cuisines from all across Asia; the longest queues, though, are outside the bubble tea cafes.

The Collection

The National Geographic Traveller Food Festival 2021

Experience the world through food and travel.

Food

From my kitchen to yours: Claus Meyer on Nordic flavours, philosophy and home baking

The Danish gastronomy icon and co-founder of Copenhagen’s most famous restaurant, Noma, discusses the evolution of New Nordic cuisine and how he’s adapted to the pandemic — and shares his coveted recipe for cinnamon swirls, perfect for burgeoning bakers.

Try it now: cornmeal arepas, the Latin American staple taking London by storm

Originating in Colombia and Venezuela, the arepa has become a must-try street food here in the UK — and not just in the capital. Find out why the Latin American cornmeal cake is here to stay, and the best places to order them.

Chef Judy Joo shares Seoul's top dining experiences

The restaurateur, TV host and cookbook author shares her love of Korean cuisine, and her tips on where to eat in the buzzy capital of Seoul.

Pilgrimages and peaks: how to find the right hike for you in Japan

Walk Japan CEO Paul Christie — a resident of Japan for two decades — has explored Japan from its spectacular coasts to its dramatic volcanic interior, and shares five of his all-time favourite rambles.

Meet the makers: the Greek co-op putting traditional spoon sweets on the map

In Vizitsa, one of the Greek villages that have dotted Mount Pelion’s slopes since antiquity, the women-run Esperides Co-operative uses the region's abundant orchards to create traditional Greek spoon sweets with a secret local ingredient. 

Nine chefs and food writers share their summer favourites

We asked culinary experts including Olia Hercules, Claude Boisi and Vanessa Bolosier to share their most beloved seasonal ingredients and the summer meals they’ll never forget. Sate your wanderlust with these global dishes and drinks that can transport you from your kitchen to a place in the sun.

The reality of travel in the post-coronavirus era

As the UK looks to ease travel restrictions to certain countries and destinations start reopening for business, we answer your questions about bookings, flights, hotels and attractions. What is the reality of travel as coronavirus lockdowns are lifted?

Pico Iyer on his transformational trip to Tibet

The author and memoirist recounts a powerful journey through Asia that culminated on the high plateau of Lhasa among prostrating pilgrims, in the shadow of the Potala Palace — the former winter palace of the Dalai Lamas.

Ade Adepitan on seeing Africa beyond the headlines

Reflecting on his latest BBC TV series, Africa with Ade Adepitan, the Nigerian-born British TV presenter looks back on his transcontinental journey, from Cape Verde to Somalia.

Kate Bradbury on why Costa Rica should be a blueprint for conservation

Reflecting on a trip to Central America, the TV presenter wonders what the UK would look like if it invested in the natural world as much as Costa Rica does.

Felicity Aston on the power of polar regions to teach vital conservation lessons

Wonder and science intersect on an expedition to Earth’s frozen poles, says the polar explorer. Each trip offers unique challenges that have the power to teach vital lessons — not just about the human spirit, but about our role in protecting the planet.

William Dalrymple on how living in India has changed him

William Dalrymple didn’t set out to become Britain’s leading chronicler of Indian history, but a chance trip to the subcontinent started a lifelong obsession. Thirty years on, he’s still living in Delhi, a city with a “tangible sense of history”.

Levison Wood on walking with elephants in Botswana

Setting out from the Zimbabwe border, the adventurer, author and broadcaster spent a month on the front line of elephant conservation, walking alongside a herd as it followed its annual migration route towards the Okavango Delta.

Christina Lamb on her career igniting journey to Afghanistan

The chief foreign correspondent at The Sunday Times was just 22 years old when, in the late 1980s, she journeyed up the Grand Trunk Road to Afghanistan — the start of a long and enduring love affair with the country’s colours, flavours and hospitality. 

Alastair Humphreys on finding great escapes in the UK

Having toured the globe — from camping in the Arctic to cycling through Kyrgyzstan — the adventurer finds that journeys of real significance are also on offer closer to home.

The revival of rosé wine: a guide to picking the best bottle this summer

Once regarded as uncool, rosé has undergone an image overhaul in both the Old and New Worlds. From the vineyards of Provence to the wine lands of New Zealand, here's how to pick the best bottle for your palate.

Notes from an author: Farida Zeynalova on revisiting Azerbaijan’s capital, Baku

Returning to a native city is both a recipe for nostalgia and a journey that casts the Azerbaijani capital in a new light.

Coronavirus, conservation and the wild places we should be travelling to

Following our report on bear conservation in Italy, we check back in with Paul Lister, founder of The European Nature Trust, to gauge the impact of coronavirus on European landscapes — and what lies ahead for travel and conservation.

Win an eight-night trip along Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way

National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with McKinlay Kidd and Kuoni to offer an eight-night epicurean adventure along Ireland's west coast.

How to explore Denver, Colorado's laid-back capital

Denver is the mountainous gateway to the West, but dig deeper to discover craft beer and cocktail dens, indie boutiques, design hotels and street art.

Five unusual island escapes in Japan, from fairytale forests to tropical retreats

Japan’s 6,852 islands offer everything from salmon-filled rivers in the far north to world-class diving in the south. The four main islands — Hokkaido, Honshu, Kyushu and Shikoku — are home to the vast majority of the nation’s population, but away from those behemoths, there are some fascinating options

Meet the famous fish throwers of Seattle’s Pike Place Market

Turbot, salmon and the occasional octopus fly through the air at Seattle’s Pike Place Market, where fishmongers bring new meaning to catch of the day. Here, a visit provides a window into local culinary life — and an unforgettable show.

A guide to the quiet side of Tokyo

As any local will tell you, finding tranquillity in the frenetic, neon-lit Japanese capital is perfectly possible — temple gardens and blossom-strewn parks are peppered between skyscrapers, if you know where to look. Try these green and serene spots for some moments of zen amid the hurly-burly.