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Ant Duncan

Traditional paella originates from Valencia and contains different combinations of meat, such as rabbit, sausage, chicken and snails.

Clearly, gumbo is something of a moveable feast, with many chefs and home cooks adding their own signature twists to the dish.

While gumbo refuses to be tied to a single recipe, it’s inarguably a dish of community: it has cross-cultural significance, a relevance on every Louisiana table.

Roux can make or break a gumbo. For an alternative way to create a strong, dark roux, combine oil and flour over a high heat on the stove before placing in the oven at 175C, 155C fan. Stir every 30 minutes until it turns chocolate brown.

Garlic, thyme, bay, and black, red and white peppercorns are typical additions, while basil, oregano and paprika may also season the pot. While Louisiana has a reputation for spicy food, gumbo is more likely to be highly seasoned, meaning layers of flavour, rather than fieriness.

The official dish of Louisiana, gumbo is served in practically every restaurant in the state with a locally themed menu. But for many Louisianians, this soup (or is it a stew? Many would argue it’s somewhere in between) is strictly to be made and eaten at home. It can be seafood-heavy or meaty, fired up with cayenne pepper or subtly spiced, thin and delicate or viscous and gravy-like.

Popularised in the 19th century, the British classic of steak and kidney pie has since become a pub staple. And while, over the centuries, the ingredients have been up for some debate, these days the kidneys are non-negotiable. Various types of kidney can be used, depending on your taste. Ox kidney offers a distinct, robust flavour, but for something more subtle, try veal or even lamb. Ant Duncan shot this delectable pie for our Issue 10 (winter 2020) of National Geographic Traveller Food.

Tom Kitchin's steak and kidney pie makes for the perfect comfort food.

Roasted bone barrow is credited with making a steak and kidney pie more special.

Various types of kidney can be used, depending on your taste. Ox kidney offers a distinct, robust flavour, but for something more subtle, try veal or even lamb.