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Karolin Klüppel

Sada Dorma, 77, from the village Yixi: ”Some years ago, many tourists came to our village Yixi because we have a beautiful cave to visit. But two years ago, the Chinese government built an airport just above the cave, which is too dangerous to enter now, and that's why the tourism stopped here.“

Du Zhi Ma, 61, lives in the village of Zhashi. She has been with her partner, Gan Ru, since she was 18. He spends a lot of time in her home, but he still officially lives with his mother.

Dashi Lamu, 72, visits the bank of Lugu Lake near her village of Luoshui. Every morning, women meet here for prayer. The Mosuo practice two religions: Daba and Tibetan Buddhism. These days, Buddhism plays a much more prominent role in daily life than it did in past generations. Monks and prayer flags are abundant, and most Mosuo have statues of Buddhist deities in their homes.

Libi Lamu, 70, stands in her bedroom in the village Bushucun. In Mosuo tradition the bedroom is also the room for meals, family gatherings, and discussions.

Asa Pure, 67, from the village Shankua looks out the window of her home.

For the Mosuo, old wooden boats are still an important means of transportation. No motorboats are allowed on the lake because they would pollute the water. The lake is important to local folklore. According to the Mosuo’s Daba religion, a mother goddess, Gemu, resides in a local mountain, and Lugu Lake was formed from her tears after a spirit lover spurned her.

Geiku Dorma, 77, stands in her home. She makes ends meet through her region’s burgeoning tourism industry. Her family recently opened a restaurant to cater to visitors who come to experience Mosuo culture and Lugu Lake’s natural beauty.

Sergei Dorma, 70, from the village Shankua: ”When the Red Army came after 1959, they stole so many things from us. We were not allowed to practise our Daba religion any more. They burned our monasteries and our prayer books. From 1975 on, the Chinese even forced us to give up our marriage customs; they called it ”One Husband, One Wife“ campaign. We had to marry in the Chinese way and start to live together. That was against our custom of the walking marriage.“

Pema Lamu, 73, sits in her bedroom in the village of Zhashi. Like many Dabu, her body is weathered from years spent working in fields. While men help with heavier labour, women are responsible for farm work.

Naju Dorma, 73, and Lacuo Dorma, 66, from the village of Luoshui, don traditional Mosuo clothing.