Photographer Page

Scott Ramsay

Kunene, in the north west of Namibia, is known for its harsh living conditions for both the humans and animals inhabiting its vast deserts. Peering across the landscape is local guide Robbin Uatokuja, captured by Scott Ramsay.

The Gembsbok antelope share the land with local cattle and goats, owned by the region’s Himba and Damara people. Almost uniquely in southern Africa, where most parks are fenced off and operated by central governments, many of the conservancies and nature reserves in Kunene are managed and operated by the local people themselves.

Sprawling for almost 43,000sq miles and with an average of just two residents per square mile, the Kunene region is one of the remotest and most sparsely populated regions in southern Africa. With few fences and roads, these empty, expansive landscapes are a spectacular destination for self-drive explorers, although a 4x4 is required for the notoriously rocky roads. A map and GPS unit are mandatory, too, as getting lost here can have deathly consequences.

Using a local guide is the best way to explore it all; people like Robbin Uatokuja from Puros know where and how to observe Kunene’s wild animals, all while maintaining a respectful distance.

While some parts of southern and eastern Africa have become magnets for travellers seeking wildlife experiences, the baked earth of northwest of Namibia remains largely unknown to most. The extreme dryness and heat, together with the harsh, rugged landscape, keep all but the most adventurous travellers away. But for those seeking space, silence and star-studded skies, few destinations come close.

Giant acacia trees provide welcome shade for travellers — and lunch for the giraffes that roam the dry riverbeds of the Hoarusib Valley, near the village of Puros. Another animal that’s adapted to life in the desert, they can obtain much of their water from the leaves on which they browse.

The area near the village of Puros is home to herds of African bush elephants. These are the same species as in other moister regions of Africa’s savannah, but they’re specially adapted for the Namibian desert, with broader feet to stop them from sinking into the sands and an ability to go long spells without water.

Despite the arid environment, Kuene’s most defining feature is perhaps the Kunene River, for which the region is named. During the flood season, the river tumbles over the Epupa Falls on the Angolan border, throwing up huge clouds of cool spray: a remarkable anomaly in a sweltering desert, providing travellers with respite from the intense heat and dryness of the Namib.

Even the sun in the sky feels in tune with the rawness of the landscape: every evening and morning, it burns red on the dusty horizon, shining down on the world’s oldest desert, roughly 60 million years old. Intimidating yet alluring, Kunene is true adventure country. Exploring the region isn’t always straightforward but doing so creates a sense of immense freedom.

The coast, meanwhile, attracts thousands of Cape fur seals. They feed on the rich Atlantic fish stocks, kept in healthy supply by the cold Benguela current, the temperatures of which are also responsible for the harsh conditions and scarce rainfall.