Photo story: Cornwall, out of season
After the summer crowds have dispersed, a different Cornwall emerges, with local winter produce taking centre stage on menus across the county — and nowhere more so than in the west.
The relative geographic isolation of west Cornwall has helped forge a strong community of producers, fishermen and restaurants that work together to provide visitors with some of the country’s freshest and most exciting food.
A plate of local mussels, served up at the Tolcarne Inn in Newlyn.
St Eia, in St Ives, is a small wine bar and bottle shop with a European-inspired menu and a selection of rare and unique wines. In winter, its simple menu draws on hearty ingredients, such as charcuterie and mountain cheeses, which are ideal snacks to accompany a daily-changing selection of wines by the glass.
Over in Falmouth, restaurant Mine partners with small sustainable farms to ensure many local Cornish ingredients make it onto its weekly rotating menus, whether that’s crab, trout, kale or wild mushrooms.
Verdant Brewing Co has been at the forefront of the UK’s craft beer scene, and is synonymous with hazy, hop-forward IPAs.
Verdant Brewing Co’s beer can be found in pubs across the county, as well as in its seafood bar in Falmouth. It’s also recently opened a large taproom at its brewery in Penryn.
Chris Ranger is one of a handful of oyster fishermen still working in the Fal Estuary, where he operates his 50-year-old wooden Truro River oyster boat, the Alf Smythers.
Bylaws dating back to the 1870s prohibit mass mechanical dredging of the Fal Estuary, meaning local fishermen use sailing or rowing boats to gather their catch. Ranger has been a key part of efforts to respect the fragile stocks in the estuary and help the species’ survival.
Fishing for oysters is hard work, involving sailing while simultaneously hauling up the hand-held dredges repeatedly. The fishing only takes place from October to March to encourage spawning in the summer. The native oysters are known for their mineral flavour, while Ranger says they also have “melon, lettuce and cucumber notes”.
For seafood fans, the area around Penzance and Newlyn is home to some of Cornwall’s most exciting restaurants. One of these is the Tolcarne Inn, which is located on the quayside in Newlyn in a building that dates back to 1717.
The restaurant’s daily-changing menu of fish and shellfish is based on what’s been caught by local fishermen — although you can expect signature dishes such as lemon sole with shrimp, smoked almond and caper beurre noisette.
The journey from farm to plate is a short one in Cornwall, with less reliance on large wholesalers and farmers often delivering straight to chefs. Slight Hill Farm operates this way and delivers the majority of its produce directly to local restaurants, including black futsu squash.
Few are more passionate about Cornish produce than Bruce Rennie, chef and owner at The Shore Restaurant in Penzance, who bases his evening set menu on the conversations he has with growers and fishermen earlier in the day.
The Shore Restaurant serves up a menu of Japanese-inspired dishes, made with local Cornish ingredients.
HOW TO DO IT: Chapel House in Penzance has rooms from £160 (standard price is £195, with a 20% discount for single occupancy).
Trains to Penzance from London start at £129 for a return journey.
Published in Issue 18 (winter 2022/23) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK)
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