Five champagnes to try this Christmas
What you opt for naturally depends on how sweet a tooth you have. The other big decision is how much to pay and that depends partly what you want it for.
Nothing marks a special occasion like a bottle of champagne. That’s been the case for as long as most of us can remember and, despite other options moving in and out of fashion, it still is.
The champagne houses have been extremely clever about protecting their patch. No other wine-producing region is allowed to use the C word. What’s more, other producers can’t even use the term méthode champenois, even if they follow the same production method, which involves months of ageing and a secondary fermentation in the bottle.
All champagne is produced within an area of vineyards no bigger than 84,000 acres, yet there are different styles. Vintage champagnes those made from a single, particularly good harvest are aged for longer and are generally weighty wines that you need to service with food.
However, most champagnes are actually non-vintage, meaning they’re a blend of different vintages. These can vary, depending on the style of the house Taittinger, for example, is relatively light, while Bollinger is considerably richer.
Most of the big brands source their grapes from all over the Champagne region, which stretches from Reims in the north down to Troyes in the south. But there’s been increased interest over the past few years in so-called growers’ champagnes made by producers using their own grapes, something that allows for more individuality of style.
Most champagnes are a blend of three grape varieties, namely chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. However, some are based solely on either light or dark-skinned grapes (known as blanc de blancs and blanc de noirs, respectively).
And when it comes to rosé champagne, a small proportion of still red wine is added for colour and additional fruitiness. The other big trend in recent years has been to reduce the dosage, which is the sweetened wine that’s added to the bottle before it’s corked.
For most brands today, the dosage is lower than it once was, partly due to the fact that grapes have got riper as a result of global warming, and partly because of sweet champagne falling out of favour. Of course, with some champagnes those referred to as extra brut or ultra brut there’s very little dosage, and in brut nature none at all.
What you opt for naturally depends on how sweet a tooth you have. The other big decision is how much to pay and that depends partly what you want it for.
There are perfectly decent champagnes available for around £14-15 (Aldi’s Veuve Monsigny and Lidl’s Comte de Senneval, for instance), which would be ideal for a party. But for something more important, like a romantic dinner or a special gastronomic meal, you might want to choose one of my picks below.
All champagne is produced within an area of vineyards no bigger than 84,000 acres, yet there are different styles.
Five to try
1. Champagne Gremillet Selection Brut
A great value, classic non vintage champagne from a family-owned producer blending rich toastiness with a citrussy freshness. Would be great with fish and chips, parmesan biscuits or anything deep fried or crispy. £29.99.
2. Paul Goerg Premier Cru a Vertus Blanc de Blancs
This rich, creamy champagne comes from premier cru vineyards in one of the best chardonnay terroirs of the region. It would be perfect alongside simply grilled fish, scallops or a fish pie. £35.99.
3. Andre Clouet Chalky
A leaner, more linear style of blanc de blancs with a purity underlined by the striking white bottle. The low dosage makes it a great match for raw and lightly cooked shellfish such as white crab meat or langoustines. Try it with smoked salmon, too. £42.
4. Gonet - Médeville Rosé Extra Brut 1er Cru
A growers’ champagne with pretty, red berry fruit that exhibits all the charm of rosé. Drink it as an aperitif or with sashimi, but it would be also delicious with prawns or a goat’s cheese salad. £43.95.
5.Berry Bros & Rudd Champagne by Mailly 2013 Grand Cru, Brut
Champagne in a magnum is ideal for a special occasion. This rich, toasty cuvée under Berry Bros & Rudd’s own label is great value for a vintage that’s almost 10 years old and would go well with roast turkey. £82 for a magnum.
Published in Issue 18 (winter 2022/23) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK)
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